Part 1 (X-Trans V) – Part 2 (X-Trans IV)
I get asked all of the time when to use which Film Simulation Recipe. With over 350 in the Fuji X Weekly App to choose from, it can be difficult to know when each Recipe should be chosen, especially since many of them are specifically intended for sunny daylight conditions. With only seven Custom Settings presets on your Fujifilm camera (for most of you, anyway), which ones should you have programed? When should you select them?
The problem with trying to answer this question is that it’s a highly subjective endeavor. While I might like a certain Recipe for a particular situation, you might not. There’s not a right or wrong answer, just what works for you and what doesn’t—and I cannot say whether any particular Recipe will work for you or not. Only you can answer that for yourself, and you have to try a Recipe to know. With that said, I do attempt to give good advice. I’ve written many articles related to this topic, including the series Which Film Simulation Recipes, When? While that has likely been the most helpful, it’s nearly two-years-old now, and a lot of new Recipes have been published since. I think it’s time to update the series for 2024.
The premise of the original series is that Jason Kummerfeldt of Grainydays, a YouTube channel about film photography, gave some advice on when to use which film emulsion in a video entitled Which Film Stock, When? Since film choice is such a personal thing, how do you say when to use which? It’s the same thing for Film Simulation Recipes. His solution was simply to demonstrate what he uses and state what he likes, and maybe you’ll like it, too. In my series, I copied that approach for Recipes—I told you my preferences, and invited you to try them out. We’re going to follow that same formula for this update with just a small twist, which I think makes a little more sense.
What makes Part 3 more challenging than the first two articles is that the X-T3 and X-T30 cameras cannot remember a White Balance Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Settings presets. If two Recipes share the same white balance type but not the same shift, when you switch presets you must remember to adjust the shift, too. That can be inconvenient and frustrating, so my best solution is to program Recipes that use different white balance types and/or share the same white balance type and shift. The user experience is much improved, but you might not be able to program all of your favorite Recipes at the same time, which is the one downside to this solution. What I set out to do with this article is recommend seven Recipes, one for each C1-C7 Custom Settings preset, that don’t share the same white balance type, or, if they do, share the same shift. It’s a difficult task, but I think I came up with a good set for you; however, there were definitely some tough cuts.
Also, if you have a newer X-Trans IV camera, you can use these Recipes, too, by simply setting Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and choosing a Grain size (either Small or Large). While the next installment will cover X-Trans III, some of these Recipes are compatible with X-Trans III cameras; the key is to look for whether they call for Color Chrome Effect or not—if not, it’s compatible with X-Trans III. Also, X-Trans III recipes are fully compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30 (just set Color Chrome Effect to Off), but I avoided those Recipes for this article because I wanted to save them for Part 4.
Below are seven Recipe suggestions for you to program into C1-C7 on your Fujifilm camera, with advice on when to use each. Since Recipes are (for the most part) generationally specific, each article will cover a different group of cameras. This is Part 3, and covers the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30.
C1 — Kodak Portra 400 v2 — Sunny Daylight #1
Kodak Portra 400 v2 does well anytime during daylight hours, but especially for “golden hour” near sunrise and sunset. As the name suggests it is a good option for portrait photography, but is excellent for many genres. This really could be your primary use-most-of-the-time Recipe, and that’s why I suggest placing it in C1. This Recipe uses the Daylight White Balance type, as do the first four of the suggested alternatives below (but not the last one).
Some alternatives to consider:
Kodachrome 64
Kodak Gold 200
Kodak Portra 160
Kodak Portra 400
Pro Neg
Note: Kodak Gold 200, Kodak Portra 160, and Kodak Portra 400 all share the same WB type and WB shift, and could potentially be your C1-C3.
C2 — Classic Kodak — Sunny Daylight #2
I like to reserve C2 for bright midday photography. The old rule of thumb was once the sun was high in the sky, it’s time to put the camera away. While Classic Kodak can be used anytime the sun is out, it is a great options for middle-of-the-day situations, and proves the old adage wrong. This Recipe uses the Shade White Balance type, as do the first two suggested alternatives below (but not the bottom three).
Some alternatives to consider:
Porto 200
Lomography Color 100
McCurry Kodachrome
Kodacolor
Kodacolor VR
C3 — Kodak Vision3 250D — Sunny Daylight #3
This is a good spot to have an alternative aesthetic compared to C1 and C2—as I don’t think you’d want to have all three up to this point to be essentially similar. Although each of the first three have a Kodak-negative-like look, Kodak Vision3 250D produces a notably divergent aesthetic. With the ones I’ve suggested so far, you’ve got a good set for all sorts of daylight situations no matter your subject. This Recipe uses the Fluorescent 1 White Balance type, as does the first suggested alternative below (but not the bottom four).
Some alternatives to consider:
Color Negative
Fujicolor 100 Industrial
Fujicolor Pro 160NS
Negative Print
Analog Color
C4 — Ektachrome E100GX — Overcast
Ektachrome E100GX is excellent for sunny daylight photography, but it also does pretty well for dreary overcast conditions. It uses the Fluorescent 2 White Balance type, as does the first suggested alternative below (but not the bottom four).
Some alternatives to consider:
Fujichrome Sensia 100
Classic Slide
Fujicolor Pro 400H
Eterna Bleach Bypass
Eterna v3
C5 — Kodak Ultramax— Versatility
I like to have at least one Recipe programmed into my camera that’s highly versatile and can be used no matter the situation. While there are not as many options for the X-T3 and X-T30 as there are for newer X-Trans IV cameras, there are still some excellent options; of those, my personal favorite is Kodak Ultramax. It uses the Auto White Balance type, as do all of the suggested alternatives below.
Some alternatives to consider:
Velvia
Velvia v2
Eterna
Polaroid
Verano Tostado
C6 — Jeff Davenport Night — Nighttime
If it’s between dusk and dawn, especially if there are city lights, Jeff Davenport Night is the recipe to use on your X-T3 and X-T30 cameras. Period. It uses the Kelvin White Balance type, as does the first option below (but not the bottom four).
Some alternatives to consider:
Eterna Low Contrast
Cinematic Negative
Melancholy Blue
Expired Eterna
Fujicolor Pro 400H Overexposed
C7 — Analog Monochrome — B&W
Last but not least is B&W. Filling out the last slot is tricky, because most of the White Balance types have already been used. There are basically three options: choose an X-Trans III Recipe—which is fully compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30—that uses a different WB type (that’s what I’ve done here, as Analog Monochrome utilizes Incandescent); use an Auto WB Recipe—perhaps Ilford Delta Push Process—and disregard the WB Shift, and accept the results for what they are (which will be nearly the same, but not exactly the same); or use a Daylight WB Recipe—perhaps Kodak Tri-X 400—and substitute Daylight with Underwater, which is similar enough that you’re not likely to notice the difference.
Some alternatives to consider:
Kodak Tri-X 400
Agfa APX 400
Monochrome Kodachrome
Ilford Delta Push-Process
Ilford HP5 Plus 400 Push-Process
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Stay tuned for Part 4!